Sunday, March 11, 2007

Making Friends and Burmese Travel

While in Bagan we made some amazing friends. A family of 3 whom despite their poverty, opened up their home to us. We we were invited to dinner 2 nights in a row, and ate lunch with them every day we were there. I managed to give Pyisone a NHL T-shirt that I happened to have with me (acquired accidentally from another traveller earlier in our trip), but unfortunately it was one of Montreal! He loved in none the less. He also got my frisbee and anything else I could dig up for him.Jillene and San San Win - Pyisone's mother.The 5 of us. The father is Khin Moung Oo. Where we standing was their home... A dirt floor with a bamboo thatch roof and walls which they open up during the day/night to take place as a restaurant. I think it is a good day if they get more than a couple customers. We always seemed to be the only ones there.Travelling by truck. As the rule goes, women on the bottom, men on the top. Jillene is actually squished inside below me somewhere in this picture. The top is usually the better deal. We spent probably over 20 hrs getting around the country this way, and each time the trucks would carry more people than you could count! Interesting fact, this truck made it the 120km return trip from Bagan to Mt. Popa with no clutch. He did manage to burn out his starter though by the end of the day - which wasn't a surprise.


This is Mt. Popa. A monastery on top of a mountain a day trip away from Bagan. Was a pretty interesting place and a nice walk up some stairs all the way to the top. This was taken in Mandalay. The main Pagoda in town had this budda where the pay their respect by put 'gold leaf' on it everyday. Basically sticky microscopically thin sheets of gold. This is what they are doing in this picture.A group of monks taking in a show at one of the temples outside Mandalay. We actually didn't spend too much time in Mandalay as it was incredibly noisy/loud and not really appealing after the relaxing and beautiful atmosphere of Bagan. One night 2 days and we were out. We wanted to go to Inle Lake by train, little did we know the adventure that was in store...2 days to travel just over 200 kilometers! Yes you read that right.... I was an adventure and experience all on its own. But I wouldn't do it any different. Trains in Myanmar are about as unreliable as it gets, and if you haven't discovered patience, then I would stay away! First class travel is an option - nice carriage on same train with your own comfortable seat - but we opted to go with the locals! Didn't ride on the roof as you can see below, but we sure didn't have our own seats. These are our 'lady friends' whom we traveled with. A little tight fit, and they sure loved to sleep - we don't have a clue how - but they were as friendly as you get. Our first day was from Mandalay to Thazi where we waited in the train station for our 5:30am train to finally leave at 1:00pm. 1 hour out of Mandalay it broke down.
And this is how I spent a little of my time - when I wasn't checking up on the repairs. These are my friends in 1st class who like to drink and were determined that I do shots of rum with them. Well they were successful a couple times, but I had to refuse the chillies and boiled egg chasers they were also offering. If you ever travel in Myanmar, you'll shortly learn that you get so much attention you feel like a celebrity. If someone is drinking... they'll want you to join!
Anyway... we finally arrived in Thazi around 5:30 pm. Our 12 hour trip that was supposed to take only 3. The next day we were on a train - with above ladies - and it was suppose to be the long one, 7 hrs. Well our 7 hr journey turned into 16 after our train left on time, but still managed to break down again. But as always - as on every bus trip and truck trip - they managed to fix it on the spot.
This is awesome. This was the brake used while when we broke down in the mountains on the way to Inle Lake. Also a highlight, climbing the mountains. The tracks were actually switchbacks where we would drive up a hill forward, then back up on a different set of tracks climbing even higher, then going forwards up another set of tracks. Pretty cool stuff...
And to demonstrate the typical Burmese generosity which never ceased to amaze us, this picture was taken while we were broken down for nearly 5 hours on our way to Inle Lake. Villages whom lived along the tracks and of course are as poor as they come, brought huge bowls of rice, beans, and curry to feed the hungry/stranded passengers on the train free of charge. It would have been an opportunity to make money, but they just don't think that way...

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